Showing posts with label chapter 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chapter 1. Show all posts

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Module 6 chapter 1

Reasearch of decorative textiles from other cultures

I have chosen option 1 for this chapter, which is to make a study of a specific area of the world to discover the materials used to create decorative textile objects.

My chosen area is Tansania as I was lucky enough to go on a safari there in 2009. Although this was a controled visit we were able to meet the Massai people in their enkang/settlement. We also saw many Maasai tribespeople walking in the Serengetti and other areas.

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Masaai is a generic term for many different tribal groups but the most fearsome of them all are the Moran, they are the stormtroopers, comandos of the tribal world. Their cattle were their life and a Moran's duty was to protect his father's heard and capture other peoples' as their God Enkai had given all the cattle in the world to the Massai.

They are, however having to adapt to the changes imposed upon them, and this can be seen, to a lesser degree in their ornamentation. Their beaded jewelery and patterns often relate to difffernt tribes, which are as varied and complicated as the Scottish clans. Sometimes this decoration in textiles and every day objects is the only way that tribespeople now recognise a person's tribal herritage.

The beads used today were first intoduced to the Maasai in the late 1800 's as tokens of friendship and exchange given by early explorers. Later the Missionary women taught the Maasai women how to make patterns with the beads and later how to make articles for sale for tourists.

It was a great eperience to be welcomed into the Enkang where each familly had laid out thier wears for sale, and interestingly it was the rule that once you had chosen a familly that was the only place you could buy your souvenires. Also the women kept all the money even from sales that the men made and this then went to the schooling of their children

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I bought a beautiful beaded bowl and three little pots that sat inside each other. The structure of the bowl is quite complex in it's construction. The above image is a digital painting of it, below is a sketch where I tried to work out how the design was worked.

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As you can see I've tried a small samlple of the beaded bowl. I don't know how the Massai women consruct their pieces but I think it must be with the minimum of tools as we saw them several times, sitting together in the grass outside the lodges working on different pieces. My bowl measures about 5 inces in diameter and is about 2.5 inches deep, it holds found treasures

And here are 2 of the three beaded boxes that I bought home. The smallest measurues 2.0 inches in diameter and is 1.5 inches tall. The biggest one ot the set measures 3.5 inches in diameter and is 2.5 inches tall.

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I Also purchased a beautiful book about the Maasai which has some wonderful photos of their beadwork.The book is titled The Last of the Maasai, Mohamed Amin, Duncan Willetts, John Eames, foward by Elspeth Huxley. I have used it extensively for my research in this chapter.


One of the pieces in the book shows how humurous and ecclectic the girls can be in their beadwork

This headress is called 999 as it's named after police cars with swirling light on the top, as you can see buttons and metal have also been used in the construction.

Again I sketched the design to see how it was constructed and it was much more complicated than I had expected.

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As you can see once again I had a go at making my own version of the centre piece but it's not nearly as beautiful as the one this lovely girl has made for a celebration. She has also had her face painted with a red ochre soil paste taken from the the area she lives in. This is also used as a method to dye cloth.

The last of my studies was this pair of long earings that the girls have to wear before they do the milking in the morning. The wide leather strap is worn through the large hole in their ears and the undecorated part is then folded down and fixed to the front.

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Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Module 4 chapter 1b



In this chapter I chose to look at a single flower and see how it differs in it’s embroidered translation, depending on the country of origin.

I chose a tulip, which originates from Hungary, and when the country came under Ottoman rule in the mid 1500’s, the flower then arrived in Turkey. The Turks adopted it as their symbol of life and fertility. The name was derived from the habit of the Ottoman sultan’s of wearing a tulip in their turban, the Persian word for which is Tulipan.

In 1562 the first tulip arrived in Europe via Antwerp.

It would appear that from the very beginning tulips have been connected with fertility.


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These 2 pieces are part of a bed curtain from Slovakia featuring pulled threadwork and satin stitch.

‘To protect the mother and newborn child from evil spirits, both were confined for forty days behind the an embroidered curtain. Pulledwork enabled the mother to see into the room and and the designs were usually symbolic, here the tulip of fertility.’ Embroidered Textiles Sheila Paine


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Different countries had used different symbolism for childbirth and Christening of a baby.
In Griffons, Switzerland the protection was offered by the symbolic tree of life with the fertility motifs of carnation and tulip.’Embroidered Textiles Sheila Paine

I also found a beautiful tulip embroidery on an Elizabethan glove which is in the the V&A collection and can be seen here


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In the course of my research I found Hedebo Embroidery, which is beautiful whitework made in Denmark, and amongst the collection of designs was this delightful tulip which is known as the Hedebo flower.

Bibliography

http://www.tulip-info.com/

http://genvieve.pbworks.com/w/page/9773760/Satin%20Stitch%20Tulip

http://køge.info/hedeboeng/om_hedebosyning/hedebo-og-motiverne/flora

Shiela Paine Embroidered Textiles Traditional Patterns from Five Continents with a worldwide guide to identification Thames and Hudson 1995 London

Resources

Mike Young Photo library

Saturday, 10 March 2012

Module 4 chapter 1a

The historical part of this module is all about the use of flowers in Elizabethan embroidery, so to start with I have taken a broad overview.

Overview

The fashion for highly decorated embroidered clothing and household textiles was at an all time high in the Elizabethan era.

It was used as an indication of class and only those in the highest echelons of power were allowed to express their wealth and power through their elaborate dress. Only the Queen and her relations could wear clothes that used gold or gold fabric, as dictated by the Sumptuary Law.

Sumptuous embroidery was now being used by the upper classes as a status symbol, which was a very different use to previous times when it had been exclusively used for the church vestments.

At the same time there was a rise in printing after the invention of the printing press in 1476 which allowed the upsurge of interest in all things artistic and educational, to be readily accessible to the wealthy middle classes.

Flowers were a very popular subject for Elizabethan embroidery. There were 14 known herbal or gardening books published in the 16th century.

The following flowers were known to be used in their embroidery designs.

Roses – including the rosa alba (white rose) and damask rose
Carnations (also known as gillyflowers)

Iris

Red peony
Pansy (also known as love-in-idleness and cupid’s flower)
Daffodils (also known as narcissus)

Violets

Wild hyacinth (also known as bluebell)
Honeysuckle (also known as woodbine)
Cornflowers (also known as blewbotles)
Daisy

Other design sources included emblem books and bestiaries, as well as charted design books.

The flower designs were often worked as slips which were then applied to a background fabric, sometimes linen and often the more sumptuous velvet.

Flower designs were also interpreted in the popular blackwork technique. This is usually thought to have been popularized by
Catherine of Aragon, having introduced it to England from her Spanish origins.

There are also lots of surviving examples of work containing, tent stitch, double running stitch, couching and detached buttonhole stitch.


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In the above composite, I've concentrated on Blackwork plus black and white design sources.

1. This is a pillowcase design from the V&A collection, the original is in storage.
Museum number:T.82-1924


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2. A piece of a painted cloth, possibly used for a wall decoration. This is displayed at The Weald and Downland Open Air Museum at Singleton in Sussex

3. Smock in the V&A collection


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Place of origin:
England: Great Britain (embroidered)

Date:
1575-1585 (made)

Artist/Maker:
Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques:
Embroidered linen with silk

Museum number:
T.113 to 118-1997

Gallery location:
British Galleries, room 58d, case 1


4. A Coif in the Platt costume gallery, Manchester Art Gallery


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5 A Coif in the V&A collection

Place of origin, Great Britain, United Kingdom (made)

Date:
1570-1599 (made)

Artist/Maker:
Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques:
Linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-sewn and hand-embroidered with hand-made bobbin lace

Credit Line:
Given by Mrs M E Grubbe

Museum number:
T.12-1948

Gallery location:
Textile study centre panel G15

6. A facsimile page from A Schole house for the needle by Richard Schorleyker, published in 1624, but containing typical motifs. (from the V&A Museum)

With the exception of the Coif in the Platt Museum I have viewed all the other pieces in person.


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This next composite concentrates on the colours and types of flowers that were used in Elizabethan embroidery.

1. This is part of the Uvedale Monument at St. Nicholas church at Wickham in Hampshire. The details on the jacket are beautiful and look as if they feature pansies and cornflowers.

2. This is an octagonal slip that was stitched by Elizabeth Shrewsbury (Bess) , synonymous with Harwick Hall in Derbyshire. It matches other slips that were made by Bess and Mary Queen off Scots which were mounted for a set of hangings that are now displayed at Oxburgh Hall in Norfolk.

3. The Margaret Layton Jacket

Place of origin:
England, Great Britain (made)

Date:
1610-1615 (made) 
1620 (altered)

Artist/Maker:
Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques:
Linen, embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt thread

Credit Line:
Acquired with the assistance of the National Heritage Memorial Fund, The Art Fund and contributors to the Margaret Laton Fund

Museum number:
T.228-1994

Gallery location:In Storage

4. A corner of a large linen cover, worked with red, blue, green and black silk, mainly in stem, chain, speckling, knotted and double running stitch.
V&A collection, scanned images from Elizabethan Treasures, The Hardwick Hall Textiles, Santa M Levey

One of the most interesting areas of study for me was discovering a recreation of a Layton style Jacket that was made by members of the Plimoth plantation Museum

It was an amazing achievement to recreate a jacket from the 1620'2, the style and cut of which was chosen from the Layton Jacket, in the V&A collection. The pattern was taken from another jacket, also at the V&A museum, this one was considered to be more beautiful.


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This sketch is a vey small section of one of the motifs on the Layton Jacket, there are 27 on the Plimoth jacket.

Many of the materials had to be specially made, including gilt sylk twist thread and a special hand made needle from Japan.
Nearly 1000 spangles were made by the museum blacksmith, and lacemakers had to discover how to make the silver and gold bobbin lace. The lining for the jacket was hand dyed and hand woven.

During the construction process all the seams were covered in plaited braid, an amazing achievement in itself.

The project took a staggering 3,700 hours to complete.

There is a beautiful reveal video here

And a lovely PDF brochure of the whole manufacturing story here.

I've just found Vivienne Westwood's Elizabethan inspired collection for Autumn/Winter 2012, I love it, particularly the pieces at the end of the collection


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Bibliography

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/clothing-in-elizabethan-era.html

http://dlibrary.acu.edu.au/staffhome/siryan/academy/theory_history/elizabethan_period.htm

http://www.grimfells.net/elizabethan_embroidery.pdf

http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_england_elizabethan.html

http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/t/textiles/

http://www.winterthur.org/pdfs/Plimoth-Jacket.pdf

Elizabethan Treasures, The Hardwick Hall Textiles, Santa M Levey